As I wrote in my previous column, over the years I’ve written snippets from Uncle Richard’s treatise, “Continental/Chinoise Recipes for a Gourmet Dinner,” which he wrote in the mid 1970s. I recently noticed that I had several copies of his writing in one of the many boxes I inherited from Mom and Dad and from when Steve and I purchased the Imperial Dynasty building and many of its treasure troves. I thought it would be nice to share through a couple of columns Uncle Richard’s thoughts on cooking in his own words. Following is the conclusion of his treatise begun in my last column.
“I imagine that it was inevitable that I would want to do this since I was born in to the restaurant trade and culinary heritage. I studied international trade, international law, international politics, and international relations at the University of Southern California. Afterward, I was assigned to The Foreign Office in The State Department and was specially trained and assigned to General George C. Marshall as his personal security aide and confidential food taster. Consequently, I was in a fortunate position to travel widely and to visit various countries all over the world, not only throughout the Far East, but in Continental Europe and Russia as well. Both my personal interest and official duty involved tasting food in kitchens, and I was eager to learn the various distinctive flavors, dishes, methods, and practices of cooking from different countries. It was an enchanting experience and wonderful exposure to comparative international cuisine.
“In effect, my interest in the culinary world naturally took root and flourished. I believe that acquainting ourselves with cuisines from all nations is one of the most delightful aspects in the field of international relations and it will, indeed, add considerably to the culinary delights of all nations.
“In California we are most fortunate in an abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables, local seafood, poultry, and excellent wines, unequaled blessings of quantity, quality, variety, and availability of the very good things from the very good Mother Earth. I have concluded that combining the fantastic food products of this rich and bountiful Golden State of California with my culinary experience and know-how from Continental Europe and the Far East would be the greatest service and self-expression I could achieve as a professional chef, not only in the restaurant kitchens which I now operate, but also in the field of international relations among nations.
“Fortunately for us living in California, we are further blessed by our acceptance of new ideas, new expressions, new experiences, and our friendly eagerness to absorb the culture and cuisines from other lands. No wonder it is so natural for East and West to meet happily and join in good spirit around the gracious international dining table for the grand pleasure of good food, wine, taste, and bon appetit. The broadening of culinary taste is only a part of what is exchanged in the restaurants of all nations. Being across a pleasant dinner table, people of different countries discover each other through shared friendships, respects, ideas, opinions, customs, manners, and cultural backgrounds. Through this wonderful interchange of good food, wine, and taste we learn to understand and to appreciate each other better, and in a grand culinary style we are promoting good will and good faith among nations. Good food is the essence of good living.
“I sincerely believe that a chef has a sacred duty through his culinary effort in the art of cooking to help sustain and maintain, to help restore and revitalize the physical body that nature has given to house soul and spirit. Truly then, the art of cooking and fine dining can provide a lifetime of the highest esthetic enjoyment in life and help to nourish our physical bodies and souls. It is the only form of art that a human being actually consumes and digests into this physical body with great satisfaction and soulful delight. And so, a professional chef is a master of one of life’s most creative activities. This is why it is so stimulating and rewarding to be able to express the true spirit of international cuisine, certainly one of the greatest forms of creative expression.
“There is no real mystery about being able to cook well, and there are no magical formulas in cooking. There is only the common sense to have a healthy interest, the enthusiasm, care, love, and respect for cooking as a creative art, and to have as well, the willingness and flexibility to learn, experience, and experiment in cooking. It is the only way in which any creative art can be cultivated, with devotion and patience.”
Thinking about flexibility in the art of cooking reminded me of this sweet and spicy chicken and asparagus stir-fry, which I discovered during the pandemic lockdown days when we learned to cook with the “use-what-you-have” spirit. While we love, love, love asparagus, I found this recipe is also good with thinly sliced green beans or frozen peas. Tofu, shrimp, or cubed pork shoulder may be used instead of chicken. The flavors are sublime, but rich. The stir-fry is easy, but the result is amazing and very satisfying. I doubled the sauce, because we like things saucy, and added a pinch of red chili flakes at the end. We like to serve it over steamed rice or rice noodles. Enjoy!
Arianne Wing is the author of three books, “Disturbing the Dust” the most recent, and co-operator of the L.T. Sue Tea Room and Emporium, benefiting the restoration and preservation of China Alley. She may be reached at ariannewing@gmail.com
